This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Pick up almost any bottle of South African wine, and it’s unlikely to have been made by a winemaker of colour. But things are changing. There’s an increasing determination to improve opportunities, notably for young South Africans who want to enter the industry. Initiatives such as the Cape Winemakers Guild (CWG) Protegé programme, which enables newly graduated winemakers from disadvantaged backgrounds to spend time working with some of the country’s leading winemakers, have benefited several award-winning youngsters. They include Kiara Scott Farmer, who was voted 2024 Diners Club Winemaker of the Year.
“Back in 2020, there were only a handful in serious roles. Now there are almost double that,” says Rudger van Wyk, another young CWG alumnus who started his own wine brand, New Dawn, after a successful stint as head winemaker at Stark-Condé in the Stellenbosch region.
The stories behind those forging a path in the industry are impressive. Berene Sauls, whose elegant Burgundian-style pinot noir sells for more than £40, began working as an au pair in one of South Africa’s most prestigious wine regions, Hemel-en-Aarde. She graduated to a clerical job before becoming part of the winemaking team, then founded her own brand, Tesselaarsdal. Praisy Dlamini, meanwhile, worked her way up through the wine business to start a groundbreaking winery called Her, entirely staffed by Black women.
The trail-blazing winemakers I spoke to are passionate about many of the same grapes and styles as established vintners. Rudger is inspired by Rhône varietals, while Kiara favours a low-intervention approach and has been experimenting with field blends. There’s also a determination not to be solely recognised for their colour.
“Just because you’re a person of colour… you still have a responsibility to put a good product into the bottle,” says Rudger. “The challenge is that winemakers of colour don’t come from farming backgrounds built up over the generations, with all the knowledge that comes with that.”
And barriers to entry remain. “Land ownership and access to high-quality fruit has been notoriously difficult in South Africa due to historical and socioeconomic factors,” says Mags Janjo, founder of UK-based MJ Wine Cellars, a Black importer of South African wines. “It’s hard enough for someone who comes from money to make it as a South African winemaker, let alone people from marginalised groups.”
Given this, the determination of Black South African winemakers to raise their colleagues up with them is impressive. “I’ve been reasonably successful,” says Rudger, modestly. “And I see it as one of my responsibilities to help younger folk. South Africa is a diverse community, and we should celebrate it.”
Five to try
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Amandla Our Future Sauvignon Blanc 2023/24
A zesty, citrussy sauvignon blanc made in the Western Cape by Praisy Dlamini and her team. Ideal with grilled prawns or other seafood or crunchy salads and asparagus, it will take you from winter into spring drinking. £9.50.
Kara Tara Chardonnay 2022
Winemaker Rudger van Wyk’s time in Burgundy shows in this creamy chardonnay that’s drawn from four cool-climate South African vineyards. Drink it with anything cream- or mushroom-based, or scallops. £24.49.
Brookdale Sixteen Field Blend 2023
Field blends are made from different varieties of vines that are grown together in the same vineyard. This one, made by award-winning vintner Kiara Scott Farmer, is a gorgeous white you could drink with almost anything. £26.99.
Tesselaarsdal Pinot Noir 2023
This ethereal, delicate, utterly delicious pinot noir made by Berene Sauls in the Hemel-en-Aarde region is proof that South African wine is world class — and that winemakers of colour sit among its top tier. Perfect with roast duck. £46.
M’hudi Family Boutique Pinotage 2021
Pinotage is a South African speciality, but cheaper versions can disappoint. This big, spicy, luscious red from the country’s first Black-owned wine farm does anything but. Perfect for a barbecue. £22.99.
Published in Issue 27 (spring 2025) of Food by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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